The Ultimate Guide to Ice Climbing in the San Juans of Colorado
If you're looking to hire a guide for your first climb or seeking local beta for your next backcountry ice climbing mission, this guide is your go-to resource for an unforgettable ice climbing journey in the San Juans.
Whether you're a seasoned ice climber looking to tackle new challenges or a beginner eager to dip your toes (or rather, crampons) into the world of ice climbing, this guide has everything you need to plan the perfect adventure in the Colorado San Juan Mountains. From the best areas to climb in this iconic mountain range to essential gear recommendations and top guiding companies, we've got you covered.
Ice Climbing Locations in the San Juan Mountains
Ouray Ice Park, Colorado
As guides who have spent countless days climbing and guiding clients in Ouray Ice Park, we can tell you there’s no place quite like it. Nestled in a deep box canyon, this man-made ice climbing haven boasts over 200 routes, ranging from beginner-friendly, low angle routes to challenging mixed climbs, pillars, and hanging daggers, with everything in-between. The park is meticulously maintained for both ease of access and safety, making it a must-visit for climbers of all levels.
We believe that the Ouray Ice Park is the best place in the world to learn how to ice climb. It is unique in that almost all the climbs have easy top-rope access, and it boasts the greatest concentration of ice climbs of any area in the world. You can access the anchors for the climbs by walking along the rim of the gorge, which means you can set up a rope from a safe place and then walk down a trail or rappel into the gorge to tie in and climb your route on top-rope. True, ice climbing can be intimidating and scary, but the ice park takes many variables out of the equation, creating a truly safe and comfortable environment to try your hand at this sport.
The park is typically open between late December and mid-March with the best time to come between early January and late February, because that is when the ice is in prime condition. That said, the park can get quite busy during prime season on weekends, so it can be extra rewarding to either come on a weekday or to come early or late season to avoid the crowds. For more details on the park, check out the Ouray Ice Park.
If you're interested in exploring the park with a professional, then we invite you to learn more about private half or full-day ice climbing trip with us. We’ll tailor the experience to your skill level, ensuring a safe and exhilarating adventure.
Backcountry Ice Climbing Near Ouray
If you’re looking to venture beyond the park, Ouray offers some incredible backcountry ice climbing spots as well. In fact, the whole reason why the ice park exists in the first place is because Ouray was already an ice climbing mecca in the 70’s and 80’s, and the likes of local mountaineering legends Jeff Lowe and Bobo Burwick noticed that a leaky water pipe over the Uncompaghre Gorge had created a new, climbable icicle. These avid local climbers were responsible for negotiating the deal that created the Ouray Ice Park non-profit.
One of Ouray’s most famous backcountry areas is just a few minutes past the ice park up Camp Bird Road. The right-hand side of Camp Bird Road is one of the most accessible backcountry areas in the country. Along this ¼ mile stretch of road, you’ll find over 30 natural frozen waterfalls within 15 feet of the side of the road. Talk about an easy approach! The routes range from the beginner friendly Senator Gulch, WI3, 100ft, to the super technical and steep Skylight Chimney, WI5, 300ft. Across the canyon, affectionately dubbed the “Dark Side” of Camp Bird Road, there are some of the longest, most technical climbs in the country. This is where some of America’s most accomplished alpinists cut their teeth before going into the greater ranges of Alaska, Patagonia, the Himalaya, and the Karakoram. Most climbs on this side of the road are complex, difficult, and involve mixed climbing and traditional rock gear - Bird Brain Boulevard and The Talisman are some of the most highly sought after alpine ticks in the San Juans. If you hear that one of these elusive climbs are “in”, and you’re strong enough to climb them, you should get in your car and drive to Ouray immediately to bag a once-in-a-lifetime dream route.
Additionally, there are many one-off frozen waterfalls scattered around different parts of Ouray! Basecamp guides’ favorite is the Charmin Tube, a consistently “in” 3 pitch WI4- with minimal avalanche risk that boasts some of the most beautiful ice in the San Juans. It’s called the “tube” because the ice freezes from the inside out, so as you climb you can watch the waterfall rage underneath 2-3 feet of perfectly clear ice. As you swing into the crystal clear ice, you’ll see a crystalline web of cracks radiate from the tip of your pick.
Other consistently “in” favorites are Dexter Creek Slab, (WI3-4 depending on the line, 400 ft) and Horsetail Falls (WI3-4, 500 ft). Both of these climbs are ideal for climbing in a party of three in “split-rope” fashion with two followers of slightly different skill level, as the more confident climber can climb a more difficult WI4 line right next to their friend/loved one who can climb an easier WI3 line on the same ice flow. Nothing beats high-fiving your partner in the middle of a frozen waterfall!
Ouray also hosts an amazing variety of more elusive climbs, which are especially rewarding because they are ephemeral. Some of these climbs only come in once every 3 years, others come in every year but only for a few days. Directly overlooking town, Cascade Falls, WI4, 300 ft, only comes in once in a blue moon because it is directly sun-facing, so it requires multiple days of cloudy, cold temperatures to freeze up. But if it’s in, you can walk from the center of town, climb Cascade Falls, link it into Charmin Tube (which is the upper section of Cascade Creek), have an epic 9 pitch adventure, and then walk down an easy trail right back to Maggie’s Kitchen in the center of town to have a celebratory burger. Additionally, Gravity’s Rainbow, WI5 M3, 500ft and Kennedy’s Gully, WI4, 1000ft are both 5 minutes from town up the Million Dollar Highway and get you way off the ground with epic views.
Silverton, Colorado
Silverton is a hidden gem in the world of ice climbing. This remote mountain town is surrounded by towering peaks, offering some of the most dramatic and challenging ice climbs in the San Juans.
Basecamp Guide Suzanna Leading Stairway to Heaven in Silverton Colorado
The highest concentration of ice climbs near Silverton is located just 10 minutes from town near a historic ghost town called Eureka, which boasts a wide selection of routes. The climbs here are generally longer and taller than climbs in the Ouray area (with some notable exceptions), making for a more full day with a greater sense of adventure. Additionally, Eureka stays very cold, so the ice here is some of the best quality stuff you’ll find anywhere in the San Juans.
An example of an easier climb in Eureka is Second Gully, a moderate, 800 foot, beautiful low-angle WI3 which is accessible to anyone who can climb the Kids’ Wall at the Ouray Ice Park (assuming you can climb it 30 times). An example of a longer classic that requires good systems and efficient movement but isn’t super difficult is Stairway to Heaven, WI4, 1200 feet, which is arguably one of the finest ice climbs in all of Colorado. Eureka also has opportunities to push your limits with climbs like the consistently vertical and gorgeous Fat City pillar, WI5, 200 feet, which is completely detached from the cliff face such that you can walk/climb 360 degrees all the way around the base of the upper pillar! An incredibly cool experience!
It is important to note that the approaches and most of the climbs in Eureka are threatened by overhead avalanche hazard, so it is imperative that you have a high level understanding of the local avalanche risks and how to mitigate them. If you are not 100% sure you know what’s going on in the area, please contact one of the local guide services for information. We can provide first-hand observations and direct you to local avalanche forecasting resources, but nothing can replace local experience, so if you are unsure, please consider climbing in Eureka with a guide.
For those who prefer to explore these wild routes with an expert by their side, we offer guided backcountry ice climbing trips in Silverton. Our guides know these routes and the avalanche risks like the back of their hands and can ensure you get the most out of your climb while making good decisions to keep you safe.
You can find more detail on routes near Silverton here, give us a call at 970-318-9828, or explore our backcountry guided ice experiences here.
Telluride, Colorado
Basecamp Guide and Team Athlete Approaches Bridalveil Falls in Silverton Colorado
Telluride might be famous for its ski slopes, but the ice climbing here is just as world-class. The alpine setting of the San Juan Mountains around Telluride offers some of the most breathtaking—and challenging—ice climbs in the country. Bridalveil Falls, WI5+/WI6, 400 feet, is Colorado’s tallest free-falling waterfall and one of the most classic and difficult ice climbs in the U.S. This iconic climb, which reopened to the public in 2008-09 after decades of restricted access, remains a bucket-list climb for ice climbers worldwide.
Another classic in the Telluride area is the Ames Ice Hose, a demanding climb that tests even the most experienced alpinists. The combination of steep, sustained ice and mixed climbing makes it a true test of skill and endurance.
If you're thinking about tackling these legendary routes, we highly recommend going with a local guide who can help navigate the complexities of the terrain and ensure your safety. Our guided trips in Telluride, Silverton and Ouray provide not just expert guidance but also insider knowledge of the best conditions and hidden gems.
Lake City, Colorado
The newly formed Lake City Ice Park has three ice climbing areas, Pumphouse Park, Beer Garden, and Dynamite Shack, with more than 75 routes between the parks with mixed grades WI3 and up. These three sections of the Lake City Ice Park offer climbs great for beginners or more challenging for those looking for an extra pump. Lake City can be a great way to expand your access to terrain if you’re a newer ice climber who’s spent some time in the Ouray Ice Park and looking for more ice, but not yet comfortable leading/climbing in the backcountry.
Guided Trips vs. Non-Guided Trips
If you’ve never led an ice climb before, we strongly recommend hiring a professional guide and investing in proper training. A guide can provide the safety and local knowledge that’s crucial when tackling the challenging and often unpredictable conditions in the San Juan Mountains while also teaching you the ropes to safely top roping and leading your own ice climbs.
Advantages of Guided Trips
Opting for a guided trip comes with significant benefits. First and foremost, you’ll have the safety net of climbing with an expert who knows the terrain inside and out. Guides can also offer personalized instruction, helping you develop your skills and progress more quickly than you might on your own. Whether you’re new to ice climbing or looking to push your limits, a guide can tailor the experience to your specific goals and abilities.
Advantages of Non-Guided Trips
On the other hand, non-guided trips offer a different kind of adventure. The independence of climbing on your own allows for a more personal and flexible experience, and it can be a more cost-effective option. However, this route is best suited for those who have a solid understanding of ice climbing techniques, route-finding, and risk management.
Who Should Choose Guided vs. Non-Guided?
Deciding between a guided or non-guided trip depends on several factors, including your experience level, climbing goals, comfort with risk, and experience in a given mountain range. If you’re new to the sport, aiming to improve your skills, a solo climber or interested in exploring new regions a guided trip is likely the best choice.
Progression to Leading Your Own Ice Climbs
Progression For A New Ice Climber
Embarking on your ice climbing journey is like stepping into a world where adrenaline meets the tranquility of the mountains. It's an experience that builds not just your physical strength but your mental fortitude. Whether you're staring up at a towering frozen waterfall for the first time or mastering the art of placing your tools with precision, the progression from beginner to lead climber is an exhilarating adventure. Here’s how you can make that journey with confidence, while keeping the thrill alive at every step.
Learning The Basics
Every great climber starts with a solid foundation. The basics of ice climbing are all about understanding the terrain, mastering the use of your gear, and building the confidence to trust your movements on the ice. At Basecamp Ouray, we offer half-day and full-day ice climbing trips designed to introduce you to these essential skills. These trips are perfect for dipping your toes into the sport under the guidance of seasoned professionals who know the ins and outs of climbing in the San Juans.
For those who want to dive deeper, our 2-day beginner foundations course is the ideal next step. This immersive experience not only covers the basics but also sets you up with the techniques and knowledge you need to start tackling more challenging routes. It’s about more than just climbing—it's about gaining the skills to do it safely and effectively, setting the stage for your continued growth in the sport.
Intermediate Skills Development
As you gain confidence on the ice, it’s natural to crave more challenging climbs. This is where intermediate skills development comes into play. Advancing in ice climbing involves learning new techniques, such as improving your footwork, understanding ice formations, and learning to assess routes more critically. Continuous learning and mentorship are key at this stage. Whether you’re practicing on steeper terrain or experimenting with mixed climbing, having an experienced guide by your side can make all the difference.
Our 3 Day Progressive Ice Climbing Course is tailored to help you push your limits while ensuring that you build the skills necessary to climb more independently. The focus here is on refining your technique and preparing you for the next big step in your progression… leading your own climbs.
Becoming A Lead Climber
The transition to leading your own climbs is one of the most rewarding milestones in ice climbing. However, it’s also one that requires careful preparation. Leading isn’t just about being strong on the ice; it’s about making sound decisions, managing risks, and understanding the nuances of gear placement and route finding. It’s a level in your development as a climber that requires both skill and confidence.
For climbers who want to learn to lead in a structured and accelerated program, our "Learn to Lead in a Season" program is designed to get you there. This comprehensive program covers everything from the mindset of a high performance climber, cross training and diet, gear selection and anchor building to advanced techniques and decision-making strategies. It’s about empowering you to take charge of your climbing adventures and experience the thrill of leading with the knowledge that you’re prepared for whatever the mountain throws your way.
Your journey in ice climbing is one that’s filled with challenges, triumphs, and unforgettable moments. Each step you take not only brings you closer to the summit but also deepens your connection to the sport and the incredible landscapes of the San Juan Mountains.
Ice Climbing Guides in Ouray Colorado
San Juan Mountain Guides
San Juan Mountain Guides boasts a long history of guiding in the region, making them one of the local experts. Their team of highly qualified guides brings a deep knowledge of the local terrain and a strong emphasis on safety and education. Known for their professionalism and top-tier training, they offer a variety of climbing experiences tailored to different skill levels.
Mountain Trip
Mountain Trip offers a wide range of ice climbing experiences and courses designed for climbers of all levels. Their approach is centered on providing a top-notch client experience, with a focus on education, safety, and achieving personal goals. Whether you're a beginner looking to learn the basics or an experienced climber aiming to tackle more challenging routes, Mountain Trip provides the support and expertise needed for a successful adventure.
Basecamp Ouray
Basecamp Ouray is renowned for its expert-guided ice climbing, rock climbing and via ferrata trips in Colorado. Offering everything from half-day to full-day trips, as well as specialized courses for beginners and advanced climbers, Basecamp Ouray has become the go-to service for ice climbing enthusiasts in the San Juans. With over 500 five-star reviews online and rated the top guide service in the San Juans for three consecutive years, we’re committed to safety, personalized instruction, and creating memories that last a lifetime.
Interested in learning more about guided ice climbing? Don't just dream about it—experience the thrill of ice climbing in the breathtaking San Juan Mountains for yourself! If you have questions after reading this article, or you just want to learn a little more about climbing in Colorado, give us a ring or explore our guided ice climbing experiences here.